- Size: Approx.23.5*22cm(L*W)
- Color: Leopard, blue, pink, yellow, purple
- Material: Lint
- This Fuzzy Nest gives your lovely parrots or birds a warm and comfortable hut to rest.
| Brand Name | Vktech |
|---|---|
| Manufacturer | Vktech |
| UPC | 520189409888 |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 6ng7et3hy0jk6D04-US07 |
| Is Assembly Required | No |
| Item Dimensions D x W x H | 5.31"D x 9.65"W x 6.69"H |
| Item Weight | 3 Ounces |
| Color | Blue |
| Product Style | Modern |
| Dog Breed Size | Extra Small |
| Target Species | Parrot |
| Material Type | Lint |
8 đánh giá cho Vktech® Plush Snuggle Bird Hammock Hanging Snuggle Cave Happy Hut Bird Parrot Hideaway Size M (23.5 * 22cm) (Blue)
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Birdcage Accessories- Birds
Giá gốc là: $15.99.$11.00Giá hiện tại là: $11.00.
Giảm giá!
Birdcage Accessories- Birds
Giá gốc là: $15.99.$11.00Giá hiện tại là: $11.00.
Birdcage Accessories- Birds
$18.00
F OBLAK –
Fantastic product. My bird is in love with it
James Festini –
I bought this for my pineapple Conure about two years ago and I cannot believe that I re-ordered from the same company and what showed up is what I had two years ago. What did my bird do? Did they change the manufacturing or the material? The one I had in my cage from Prior was flat, and ugly. This one was nice and fluffy. I would recommend that you open it up and air it out for a day because it does have a strong manufacturing smell of chemical. Otherwise I am curious to see what it looks like two years and I will definitely re-order this because it’s a good value and my bird loves it.
Melissa M. –
This is very nicely made, but it came with a strong chemical smell. Because birds are so sensitive to fumes, I returned it. I hung it outside for a few days, and also washed it. The smell improved slightly after a wash, but not enough for me. I recommend hand washing it twice before use.
L. Holly –
Cozy and soft
Cynthia –
Listen, if you want a quality and affordable hut such as I did, buy it. It’s nice to the touch and I had no problems with fraying or my quaker parrot injuring herself. However, this is completely unnecessary and a stimulant to your bird being hormonal. I made mistakes along the way of being an adult bird owner and am paying for them. I did my research on food, diet, housing, health and got a wealth of information and some of which contradicted but never did I expect to deal with hormonal issues. I am paying for it dearly. The aggression, the obsession, the frustration, the screaming, the biting, the cage dominance among others due to me not understanding or educating myself on this topic when I could have avoided a lot and now unfortunately I have to put in 5x more work in reversing certain mental thought patterns.
Save yourself the hassle and stop creating dark spaces for your birds to sleep in and provide chewing enrichment and foraging toys and a healthy diet of vegetables, grains, fruits and nuts/seeds. This goes for all birds not just those considered big or parrots. Use varying natural wood barks such as apple and manzanita (CHECK FOR OTHER BIRD SAFE WOODS) and not the ones that cages come with so your bird does not get bumble foot which is a deformity and stiffness of the feet due to using the same size and width of dowels/perches over an extended period of time. Also birds should have access to bathing everyday. However, life sometimes doesn’t allow it so at least every other day or every 3 days. They need at least 12 hours of undisturbed sleep. Should not be around any toxic fumes, sprays, solutions, chemicals, scents etc. Ensure they have things to destroy in their cages. Birds interact with their beaks so they need toys that will allow for them to destroy them. Destruction is fun for them. There is a sense of accomplishment. If a bird isn’t destroying it’s toys it HATES them. So remove the plastic and metal ones, that are a safety hazard by the way and put natural ones in. Give your bird plenty of time outside it’s cage to stretch their wings. Bird’s need adequate exercise.
I know some people will disagree with me when I say this but it’s my opinion, birds shouldn’t have their wings clipped. Just like cats shouldn’t get declawed and dogs shouldn’t get their vocal cords cut. They come with wings, you knew that, so it’s unfair to them for you to prevent them from doing something that comes natural to them. Now if you must clip because eg. 1 of their wings is deformed and it is necessary to prevent them for trying to fly then do so in a way that offers them balance. the cut needs to be identical on both wings and have vet do it for you so you can see how to do it yourself in the future (IF you’re confident). Be careful because if you clip their blood feather they can bleed to death, same from a clipped toe nail that hits the blood quick. Have the power that stops blood loss on hand just in case of any injury when clipping and when not. It’s like a birdie bandaid. In a pink you can use corn starch to help but not fix. Get your bird to a vet even if you used one of them. Also if you are afraid of them flying outside the house and losing them then train them to do free flight and that includes flight recall. So if ever they were to fly outside which my quaker did once years ago and ended up in a tree and was able to be retrieved, flight recall works and is a good investment for both you and your bird. Training I am currently doing. Now, if it is not possible to do that then I would say clip your birds wings during the summer months and take them outside during the day on a leash or in a carrier and in the winter months let their wings grow and fly seeing as though your door will more than likely be kept closed and or quickly closed to keep the heat in.
Also, when shopping for cages, get one with more width than height. Birds fly horizontal more so than vertical. So when you get a cage that is tall it may look like more room but it isn’t. Birds love being high so they will more than likely stay towards the top quarter of their cage and lose out on the 3/4 left in vertical space. That said if you had a cage with more width then even if your bird stays mostly at the top it will have more room to explore side to side. Search free flight cages and do your research on the bar spacing that is best for your bird.
Also, I can’t stress foraging toys. Birds spend most of their life foraging it’s wired into their brain. Give them readily accessible food all throughout the day and they are using less of their brain. NOT GOOD! Give them as stated above during the beginning of the day and then later on in the evening pellets (not the colored crap from Katy and similar brands). I give my quaker Roudybush. There is also a few more that are really good and will save you on vet bills later on due to malnutrition. A seed and nut diet is trash on it’s own. They offer a lot of fat by the way. That’s like you being fed just candy. It should be a treat but not a food staple, even for the small hook bills/finches/parrotlets etc. They can eat chop and chop is a mixture of bird safe and healthy foods minced into small pieces where even picky eaters will eat things they normally wouldn’t because it’s all mixed together finely. Recipes are out there. I’m heavily considering buying the seasonal one that birdtricks on YouTube sells. I’ve binged watched their videos and the information has been an arsenal to learning how to care for my exotic feathered friend. Anyways, use treats and seeds, and nuts for training and bonding.
Also make sure to study their poop. Yes it sounds nasty but if you make a key note as to how it looks when your bird isn’t ill it may the clue to you knowing when it is. Also remember birds hide their sickness very well. Something to watch out for is your bird’s personality switching up, especially as it relates to food. If they act like Pooh Bear with honey normally and now they’re acting like Piglet, take note. If it’s not cold, they are not sleepy and they are fluffed out standing on one foot, take note. If they are no longer social or at least trying to be take note. If they are all 3 run to the vet. I did some research and found out what to look for and I noticed something when my parrot was a baby and was still being formula fed and she looked unwell. My mom didn’t notice it but I did. The next day I went to the emergency medical vet in the city and come to find out she had a yeast infection in her crop (kinda what we consider our throat/stomach to be). All in all it cost me about $600, $300 more than what I paid for her but that leads me to another thing. Birds are very expensive. They may seem like they’re not but they are if you are doing right by them. Take that into consideration.
Also some can be life long partners and therefore permanent commitments. Some cockatoos live up to 80+ years. My quaker is expected to live upwards of 16+ years. When you get a bird your life has to change, be prepared for it. Like seriously and ensure that you do your general research on bird care but then also that related to your bird of interest. For the noise factor alone I wouldn’t have gotten a quaker parrot, add on how territorial they can be. I think a green cheek or cockatiel would have been a great addition to my family. Also, don’t even think of prioritizing speech over any other reason to get a specific bird. I did and again I’m paying for it and yes my quaker speaks and she does it very well and has a really good vocabulary but she’s a shy talker so we don’t hear it often BUT ABOVE ALL ELSE, do you know what she’s extremely good at- SCCCCCCRRRREEEEAAAMMMMIIIINNNGGGG! I can hear her from down my block and she’s so good at it that I have lost some of my hearing. I’m 31 and concerned that I’ve already lost some of my hearing. To be honest, the screaming drives me crazy and I don’t know what to do at times other than lock myself in my room and turn on a movie or hop on a call. I’ve even thought about giving her away to a sanctuary. However, I know I messed her up by my lack of knowledge and understanding and she shouldn’t lose her home because of it. So I’m investing what I can to turning things around. Wish me luck and I will do the same for you! Oh and if you’ve read this far you’re a G. Tata.
M H. –
My green cheek sleeps in it every night. He was unsure about it at first but on the second night he decided to try it. I wasn’t sure it’d be big enough but he’s proven it’s just right. I’ve read reviews about birds getting stuck in string. As you should with ANYTHING you put in your baby’s enclosure, check them FREQUENTLY for any wear and tear. They use their beaks for everything. Of course they’re gonna nibble and pick at stuff. Perches, toys, hammocks, EVERYTHING should be constantly checked for wear. A product shouldn’t fall apart too quickly but it’s definitely natural for birds to destroy their stuff the same as cats and dogs and even kids. It’s our responsibility to be observant. That being said, I think it’s a great product. If this gets torn apart I may try to make one out of different material but so far so good.
Aaliyah –
my bird lovesss this little bed. it was very easy to assemble and it’s a good size for her. it fits in her cage well and doesn’t take up much space. it does get dirty with poop pretty quickly since birds poop a lot but it is easy to clean it in the washer. i’ve gotten her this bed twice and each time has been great!
Aaliyah –
My Pam sleeps in every night. She has kept it clean and doesn’t chew it surprisingly. It’s very soft. She watches her shows from it sometimes during the day. EDIT IT IS DECEMBER 21st. and Pam has decided to chew this to the point of being a risk of injury and ingesting the material. Of course I took it out of her cage and ordered one with the metal grate with chew resistant material. It won’t be as soft but hopefully much safer. I would advise keeping a close eye on this.